Cherie Thiessen

In the early hours of February 23, 1998, many North Pender Island residents awoke to sirens. Those who lived near Hope Bay and looked out at the rosy glow tinting the night had further cause for alarm.

The historic Hope Bay store was ablaze and while the volunteer firefighters were able to contain it, they couldn’t save the venerable structure. Rising from the ashes, however, was in its future. 

The first store at Hope Bay, built in 1905 by Robert Corbett to serve as post office and general store, had a short life. In 1912 it was replaced by a building that stood the test of time and quickly became the social hub of North Pender, continuing to be operated by the Corbett family for forty-two more years before finally being sold in 1956. 

After this, a series of owners tried their hand at the enterprise with varying levels of success. It flourished and floundered as commerce and freight shifted away from Hope Bay with the ferries and mail service. You can’t keep a good store down, however, and it continued to survive into the sixties and seventies, frequently operating as an arts and crafts outlet until finally, in the 1990s, it was again finding its place at the heart of the island. Poets, musicians and performers entertained outdoor audiences, locals added the store to their visitor ‘to do’ list and people started taking the time to drop by for an espresso, a visit by the old pot bellied stove and a look at the latest gifts and crafts. The fire changed all that.

History went up in flame, the edifice’s charred remains moldering for the next five years while the fire was investigated, the owner attempted to rebuild and ran out of funds, and the property was put up for sale. Rumours of pending deals came and went, but the heroes in this Phoenix story were not far away, mustering their resources and about to forge a unique partnership, the Hope Bay Rising Holdings Ltd.

In April 2003, 27 local Pender Islanders purchased the burnt out stores. One of them was one of the
Penders’ most popular artists, long time resident, Peter Binner, a goldsmith with Pender priorities - always available for coffee and a chat unless he has ‘gone sailing’. He was one of the first locals to recognize what could happen and to push for group ownership. To lose public access to this historic and scenic waterfront, with its old government docks, boat shed and views over to Mayne and Saturna Islands would have been tragic. Project Manager, Brent
Marsden, another of the original group, remembers well how it all came together:

“Initially there were only eight or nine of us,” explains Marsden, “but then another sale loomed, and we only had two weeks to get the rest of the people on board. We didn’t want to see it just become a private home. There is no commercial waterfront space that the public can access on these islands, other than marinas.” 

Pender Islanders were delighted to hear that their beloved Hope Bay Store and the magical site it sat on were being rescued and even better, by locals they knew.

The group, Hope Bay Rising Holdings Ltd., took on a million dollar project, with equal shares for each of the partners. They formed a Board of Directors, purchased the property and then the fun started. The property was never going to be an easy one to keep commercial. It took a year to go through the legal process, the most onerous part of the process. A parade of engineers and other experts started its march through Hope Bay shortly after the sale; more engineering specialists than Marsden even dreamt existed:

“Because the property straddles the water, basically jutting out over the view, it meant that departments like Fisheries and the Dept of Transport were all required to be involved as well as all the rest. There were structural engineers, environmental engineers, marine biologists, septic and sewer experts, traffic engineers, and all with stiff fees, of course.” 

Finally, though, July 3, 2005, dawned, the official opening of the Hope Bay store. It brought out hundreds of locals and visitors to celebrate the Hope Bay Phoenix and its important place once again in Pender Islanders’ lives. In December, as if to endorse its importance, Santa Claus himself decided to bring his Santa Ship to Hope Bay instead of to Port Washington.

These days the 17 commercial outlets are ninety per cent occupied, from a busy café hanging over the ocean and forced to serve delectable home made baking, seafood, and favourites in an effort to drag your eyes away from the stunning views, to an artisan’s co-op, a home décor boutique, a quality consignment store, the goldsmith, a real estate office, and a recent arrival, Hope Bay Hair Salon. Stylist Nicole Payer hails from Edmonton. She and her partner bought a home on the Penders and their canny realtor asked her what she did for living. When she commented she was a stylist, the realtor nudged her in the right direction, pointing out that the Hope Bay Store was looking for a stylist. “The setting is incredible.” enthuses Payer. It was a done deal. She moved in and loves it there.

Incredibly, the 27 original shareholders who make up this unique partnership are still together, working diligently to ensure the enterprise’s success. They’re rewarded by the loyalty of locals, who happily patronage the site once again and keep the cozy café buzzing even in the ‘off season’. After all, everyone loves homegrown.

You can read a little about their history and merchants at www.hopebayrising.com 

The Pender Islands’ Lantern Festival -
Westworld, Daytripper

At a quarter to five at the end of December, the light is fast disappearing at North Pender Island’s small community park on Magic Lake. Children and adults are gathering along the road and the shore while Pender Islands’ own RCMP vehicle tries valiantly to stop optimistic motorists from turning right, into the teeming crowds.

We’re here with visiting family: nieces, nephew, brother and sister-in-law and mother. I point out a corner and tell them to wait there at the end if they wander off during the festivities. “Oh no, we’ll stay with you,” they all resound, but we know they won’t; someone always disappears. It’s that kind of magic - you see something, it draws you nearer and before you know it, you’re snuggling in with strangers. 

Already there’s a huge crowd here, with more surging toward us, flashlight beams intersecting and muted voices calling out, trying to identify friends. We move toward the small tent to pick up our sparklers and I give one to each eager child.

“Can I light it now?” “It’s better to wait until the end. It’s prettier when everyone does it together.”

Of course they want to light a sparkler now AND at the end, but there aren’t enough. As usual, the number of people has been under estimated. There must be five hundred children and adults here, and that’s pretty impressive for a Gulf Island with a permanent resident population of two thousand. I make a mental note to bring sparklers next year.

The six of us huddle to discuss the best viewing point. We want to be able to watch the procession that is about to move toward us from the nearby baseball park, and we want to be able to see the kayak ballet, and the shadow play at the lake’s edge at the other end of the park, where the magic lizard comes out of the lake and dances, and then there’s the events in the middle: fire-eating, juggling, puppets, and who knows what else! Emily Carr once wrote that a true work of art is never finished, and I think the Lantern Festival organizers feel that way too. Every year something new is added to the tradition.

Ravel’s Bolero is issuing from the sound system, its repetitive notes a signal that the lantern procession is starting to move towards us. We strain to watch the surreal parade of waving lights, monster sized puppets and mile high stilt walkers. 

Candlelit tissue paper lanterns, some so large they obscure their bearers, flicker and pulse as they advance. Gigantic apparitions stalk regally among the lanterns; they are the stilt walkers, looking for all the world like players in a Greek tragedy.

These ten foot figures representing the four elements of earth, fire, water and air can be quite scary. The bearded and ominous Father Time also looms high above the crowd. A few of the younger children whimper and are picked up. We can hear the soothing voices of the parents explaining it’s only make believe.

The tots perk up, though, when they see the baby bouncing along with the lanterns, perched high in the throne being proudly carried by his father. The tiny ambassador represents the New Year and he loves his work. King for an hour, he gurgles and waves energetic small fists.         
more…

Even after four years, we’re awed as we watch these flimsy, flickering objects of beauty: a big turtle, a jelly fish, a 3-D heart, almost as if we are participating in an ancient, spiritual rite. In reality, it is, with a history that goes back to China in the Han Dynasty (206 BC-221 AD). The ancient Chinese believed that celestial spirits could be seen on the first full moon of the lunar calendar. They lit torches to better help them see their ancestors and departed loved ones, and later their illuminations changed to lanterns. Later still, fireworks - the ultimate lights - were added.

The tradition continues and like many good Chinese ideas, has spread to other countries. China continues to hold its festival on the 15th day of the first month of the traditional lunar calendar while others, especially in the west, have invented good reasons for holding it at any time.

Jill Moran, one of the Lantern Festival organizers, says this festival is held on New Years Eve because it creates a family event at a time when partying and celebration frequently leave out the children, and also because it becomes a celebration of the return of light at the darkest time of the year.
She remembers the Lantern Festival’s second year, when nothing particular seemed to be happening for families in Victoria on New Years, and suddenly Pender was “hot”, as word got out about the festival. “There was suddenly this great tourist boom is the middle of winter; Pender tourism got a great boost.”

Although the Dandeneau’s have since left the Penders for California, they have returned yearly since, to witness their lasting gift to the community.

Preparation for the event begins early in December, when a stilt workshop is held for all skill levels, followed by a production shop for volunteers to paint staves, create lanterns, and build and paint the stilts. As soon as Christmas is over, the workshop opens from dawn to dusk, as people drop in to offer suggestions, and to work, create and chat. 

When Bolero stops playing, it’s eerily silent, but the mellow sounds announcing the start of the kayak ballet rush in to fill the void and soon we are on the grass watching the brightly lit vessels flick together and apart, like courting dragonflies. The performances follow one another resolutely, with no
M.C. and the absence of the usual jovial, loud voice somehow adds to the bewitched quality of the event.

Finally, fireworks erupt and voices beneath me chime: “Can we now? Can we now?” I light my sparkler and reach down to light the childrens’. They are eager to be among the first to pass on the light. The magical hour is over. In the light of the sparklers we do a head count to see who is missing. Mother.

“Grandma always disappears,” complains one small voice, but just then we recognize we’re being summoned. “Over here!” The voice commands. The missing has been found. “This woman’s one of your
neighbours,” my mother announces, “and she has invited us all for hot chocolate and goodies.”

“Cookies?” asks our previous complainer, hopefully. “Chocolate chip?” “Absolutely!” affirms the neighbour we are about to meet. We swarm toward her. 

Sidebar 1: the holiday season on the Penders

The Lantern Festival is the culmination of a series of events that mark the festive season. 

The Pender Lions Club - CARE Tree - seen by passengers on the B.C. Ferries, this huge Christmas tree sits high on a high at Port Washington. Every beginning of December, the tree is officially dedicated, the tree lights erupt, and a carol sing follows.

The Santa Claus ship, now in its 53rd year, visits Saturna, the Penders,
Mayne, Galiano and Salt Spring Islands on the second Saturday of December. A Belllingham Lions project originating out of Bellingham during a time when island children might never see any other Santa, this nautical one brings toys and candies, and the Lions Club on every island organizes something special. On The
Penders, the Pender Highlanders pipe in the ship, on Mayne, a parade cavalcade takes Santa to the Agricultural Hall where everyone is treated to hot drinks and a warm space. On Galiano a roaring bonfire and hot chocolate keeps everyone warm, and on Salt Spring, Santa travels to the local school and then to the hospital to delight children mostly over the age of sixty.

The Christmas Eve ferry serenade. Picture a motley crew standing around the ferry terminal at Penders’ Otter Bay. A makeshift conductor stands on the waiting room stairs, and hands out sheets of carols. The ferry arrives, gives an extra toot to say “hi” and its astonished passengers are greeted with impromptu Christmas carols. Some musicians take spoons to click together, others hum on a doctored comb, while serious musicians with horns, cellos, drums, recorders and guitars, all
do their thing, sans rehearsals. The last ferry from both Swartz Bay and Tsawwassen receive this special Christmas Eve greeting. After the chaos and cacophony, the triumphant revelers gather at the CARE tree for carols and a blessing by A Pender pastor.

Sidebar 2: Other Lantern Festivals:

Victoria Chinatown Lions 48th Lantern Festival. This is held at Central Junior High School on the third Saturday in October. and could be one of the oldest lantern festivals on the island. A fund raiser and multi cultural celebration, it features an auction, arts and crafts displays and entertainment as well as lantern creations. For information call: 381-7799 (website:
http://victoriachinatownbc.org)

Esquimalt Lantern Festival. Their 7th festival will be on the Saturday of the Swiftsure weekend. Held on the walkway to West Bay Marina, the popular festival features open air dancing until midnight.

Tofino Lantern Festival. This celebration is toward the end of August or beginning of September at Tofino Botanical Gardens, and is sponsored by the Raincoast Education Society. Weeks prior to the event, visitors and residents gather at the Rain Forest Interpretive Centre to create candle lanterns to carry during the procession. Lanterns are placed around the gardens and beside the rainforest boardwalk. It’s a night of light and art, with local musicians, performers, food and drink. “This year we had three hundred and fifty adult
partcipants pus children”, one of the organizers, George Patterson, points out.

Luminara Victoria. Saturday, July 26 - Over ten thousand people came out to the 2002 event, which is celebrated at St. Ann’s Academy and Beacon Hill Park. Celebrants dress in costume, listen to live music, light their lanterns at dusk and revel in the community spirit. For information call 388-4728.
(www.luminaravictoria.com)

Love in the land of the rising sun

Second floor, a red light is blinking off and on at a doorway indicating that the door to our romantic fantasy is about to be opened. We slip the key in and - tadaima - we have entered The Mirror and Marble Love Dreams With Your Sweetheart Room.

Crowded Japan, where frequently couples live with their parents in tiny apartment rooms, and children stay at home until they marry, has lack-of-privacy solutions. Love hotels rented short term and conveniently located in every city, make romance possible. The one we chose, Love Dreams Hotel, was circumspect from the outside and classier than most. Parking was behind walls so license plates couldn¹t be recognized from outside. There was, however, no place for our rusted
and tattered bikes. I guess lovers don’t usually cycle to their clandestine trysts! Some of the more "tacky" hotels have even cornier names like "Hollywood Love," "The Big Wave," or "Passion Palace".  

But back to the Love Dreams, where we have found everything we could want: room service, a well stocked bar, bubble bath, lotions, sleep shirts, slippers, shampoo, toothpaste, douches, not to mention a sex toy dispenser that blew me away, figurately speaking. You put your yen in the dispenser, and out comes the object of your choice. A wall sized TV with multiple screen previewed all of the sexy videos we had the choice of watching, and there seemed no way to turn it off. The bed was inviting, and the champagne wine glasses beckoned.
First things first, however, I’m for that karaoke!  

"Remember we only have three hours", my hunk reminds me, "and it will take me at least half an hour to recover from your singing."

Ah, the sweet words of wooing.

The jacuzzi enclave, with its acres of gleaming tiled floors, was almost as tempting as the karaoke, so I eventually turned my attention to that. Eventually, my sweetheart’s attentions turned away from the television screen and he followed my trail of clothes in the direction of the jacuzzi.

Ok now, cutaway to the moon rising…..then later back at the Love Dreams Hotel and the tired but happy lovers…..Here I am back in the tub while my valentine paces outside the door, checking his watch and reminding me that we are about to be automatically charged the equivalent of another $90. A machine inside the entrance to the room is loudly ticking away like a time bomb. Now is the time to feed it our money and depart. So, while he curses and fumbles as he tries to
decipher how to insert the notes, I try out some of the creams and powders and prepare for my exit. We slip out without seeing a soul; the music blankets our footsteps and the mirrors now reflects our dazed and glutted faces.  

"Sayonara", that plush voice whispers as we leave our Love Dreams behind. Do you ever get the feeling you¹re being watched?